The McCall printing facility in Manhattan, Kansas, which prints the tissue patterns for all of the major sewing pattern companies in the United States, has had limited operations since mid-October due to a computer systems issue. The printing plant is owned by CSS Industries, now part of IG Design Group, and is possibly the only printer in the US capable of printing the large scale tissue paper used in sewing patterns.
The Big 4 sewing pattern brands, McCalls, Vogue, Simplicity and New Look, are all printed at the facility. Many of the largest independent pattern companies print at McCall as well. This reliance on a single print factory is a vulnerability in the sewing pattern market and will soon lead to production and fulfillment delays across the supply chain.
Stacey Long, Vice President of Consumer Technology at CSS Industries, said on November 11 that the computer issue was a “network outage,” but several pattern designers I spoke with were told by the Production Coordinator at McCall that the outage was due to a malware attack on the company’s computer systems. Staff at the printing facility told these designers that the attack had rendered computers inaccessible to the point that they were unable to turn their computers on. When I called the Production Coordinator for comment she said she had been instructed not to speak with me.
The printing issues began in mid-October and have now lasted for at least seven weeks. “I’ve been told that I’m not able to get any printing jobs delivered until sometime in the new year,” says Gretchen Hirsch, owner of Charm Patterns. “The impact on my company is that we’ve run out of stock on several patterns and aren’t able to replenish as quickly as usual, and we also won’t be able to print a new design with them this year.”
The McCall printing facility in Manhattan, Kansas prints not only the Big 4 patterns but also the tissue for most of the independent pattern designers in the US.
Molly Hamilton, the owner of Folkwear Patterns, is facing similar challenges. “We have 4-5 patterns that need printing right now and are waiting for McCalls to be able to print them. We are about to run out of several patterns that are fairly popular due to waiting on McCalls,” she said.
She explains that the shutdown is especially frustrating coming on the heels of an earlier shutdown due to COVID-19. “This is the second time this year it has happened – first for stay-at-home orders in the spring and they were shut down for nearly 2 months. And now, with their computer system being hacked (what I was told), it’s been another 7 weeks of them out of commission. I am told each week that they think they will be back up and running soon, but I don’t think the employees really know.”
Heather Lou from Closet Core is concerned about a rush that will likely ensue once the facility is up and running again. “We are waiting on a pattern and have three to print in January so I’m pretty nervous about the crush once they are able to open again,” she says “How could a hacker cause such damage?!”
Although the printing plant is able to reprint orders at this time, they aren’t able to make any new plates, a process necessary for creating new patterns or reprinting older ones if a pattern needs just a minor change. Jenny Rushmore of Cashmerette Patterns explains, “Even our reprints require a change in text to say they’re a reprint so that we can track them, so we’re out of luck on everything.”
She goes on to point out that this experience has made clear a single point of vulnerability in the whole market and a real need for another printing option. Every designer I spoke with asked if I knew of another domestic large scale tissue printer since tissue is still the most economical way to print and mail multiple large scale pattern templates.
Patrick McElwee, co-owner and partner at Sew Liberated, says, “For a while, I have wondered if anyone else would offer bulk printing on large-format tissue. McCall’s raised prices substantially around 6 or 7 years ago, and I imagine it could be done profitably. I also imagine many indie pattern companies would be happy to give them business, in order to ensure that there is more than one supplier, so we don’t suddenly find ourselves with no suppliers again.”
Wow, this is disturbing. It really points out the vulnerability of having a single point of failure. It also seems to point out the inherent lack of interest that IG Design Group seems to have in the McCall Company.
It is those hackers in Russia and China with their ransomware. I rather wait then outsource to another country. Let’s keep these jobs in the US
What jobs are you referring to?
She’s talking about those that work in the printing facility in KS.
Ann, I’m with you. No outsourcing from USA jobs.
I meant to say Lori re jobs, but I’m also with Ann. IG Design Groups does not care.
Why would we source to another country? No where in the article was that even mentioned. What is said is we need another printing option. Obviously it would be in the USA.
Exactly.
But there is only one US-based option. That’s the whole problem. If they want to get these pattern companies back in steady business they have to work fast which means, in the meantime, printing the patterns from another location…which, obviously, would be in another country as the only US-based one has crashed. Even temporarily, the jobs will be outsourced while they repair the damage done to one location and begin setting up a second or third location. They will go to Canada, UK, or Europe-based printers to fill the gap.
I’m with you keep the pattern printing and processing in the USA!
Sublimegrafx.com is the only woman owned company, based in the US, that prints sewing patterns on tissue paper. Located in Arkansas.
It also busts the market wide open for a competitor to set up shop, while also having increased internet security so that hackers like this cannot disable the business. And/or have an alternate method of meeting printing demands if such a thing occurred.
Makes me wonder what sort of capital and knowledge is required in order to set up shop like this; and how a tissue-printing company might diversify a bit in order to be more profitable beyond just printing sewing patterns.
The problem with the Big 4 patterns– and only McCalls and Butterick currently offer pdf– is that they do not offer a copyshop size file. Printing and cutting letter size paper is wasteful. The only company printing tiled, print-at-home format pdf files is sublimegrafx.com They are the only one who offer tracing paper instead of plain white paper. Its about twice as thick as normal pattern tissue, but it is white and you can still see through it.
I agree. They have made many fast changes but none that benefit the home sewist.
I’m appalled at the time it’s taken to remedy this. It seemssewists are not essential. Not important enough to warrant good MIS and IT services. I can’t believe the business model allows for such vulnerability
You might be surprised at how prevalent these vulnerabilities are, even in major companies and even in tech companies.
That’s the apparel industry. Always behind in technology, because it’s not important until it’s important.
Well, look at it this way. Globalists have wanted to collapse the USA economy for a long time.
I feel perplexed and uncomfortable with this comment. Who are globalists? MacDonalds, Ford, Chrysler….who is it referring to?
I agree with you. I’m perplexed.
Do a google search for “new world order”, “john birch society”, and “elders of zion.” It’s insane stuff, much capitalized on by people like Alex Jones, Rush Limbaugh, Glenn Beck, et al: create fear in your audience, then sell them the solution to that fear: survival foods; supplements; gold; covid “cures”. Totally reprehensible, but becoming more and more prevalent – there are now a half-dozen members of congress (US) who buy into this garbage.
The “globalist” conspiracy has been going on since the 70’s and given their lack of success over the last fifty years, only one of two things is true: “globalist” either really suck at what they do and aren’t worth being concerned about, or they don’t exist. Occam’s razor suggests that the more rational explanation, the one with the fewest variables, is that they don’t exist. The InfoWars model is to make you afraid so they can sell you things: shut them off for four weeks and see how much better you feel: it’s like stopping junk food. Much better for you to not.
Yes, thank you, and welcome to the joke. The people you are replying to are already aware of how stupid the original conceit is, and are having a laugh at it. Please enjoy complimentary memes while you familiarize yourself with the discourse.
Anyone who is not concerned about our government taking more and more and more power and control is out of touch. I don’t know about those groups you mention except for The John Birch Society” and they are fine hardworking people from all walks of life. Their only concern is OUR freedom. My mother was a member for 30 years. They sell nothing, except some books and print material. They are much maligned because they see the big picture.
This comment has nothing to do with the topic of this article.
I agree with Christine. I neither listen nor watch any of those people Bill mentioned, except I have read a little about the John Birch Society. I have observed the globalist trend since Ross Perot warned of, “…that giant sucking sound,” of manufacturing leaving this country. Undeniably, he was right. That makes me a conspiracy theorist? No. That label is used to discount anyone you disagree with. Calling me one shows how uninformed and unthinking the “conspiracy theorist” theorists are. One of the greatest conspiracies was when the USA forefathers conspired to create the USA. As for fearfulness, Bill certainly seems to be afraid of all those people he mentioned. I’m not fearful at all, maybe because unlike Bill, I don’t follow any of those people he knows all about.
Im seeing huge opportunities here to rethink pattern printing.
I was responding to “Bill in Kansas City” about “globalist conspiracy”.
Again, though, there is nothing in this article that has anything to do with a globalist conspiracy.
Why was all this conspiracy stuff all right (you even chimed in, Abby) up through Bill’s rant, but when Christine responds to it, it’s off topic? To be fair, it’s too late to object to the topic now.
Sharon, that’s a good point. I expect to see many mom and pop shops of all kinds cropping up to fill holes like this one in pattern printing.
Pattern printing using a full-page digital press is on its way out. More and more indie companies are offering digital only options, and some will print on white copy paper as a service to their customers. Getting patterns printed on tissue paper is difficult, especially for indie companies that only need a small run. My company, Sublime Grafx, offers this service. We are a full service, print-on-demand company that prints patterns for the sewing customer and for indie companies. The indie pattern companies that used CSS for their printing got hit hard. It has forced them to rethink their business model. Personally, I think if you are using your competition to produce your end product, you need to seriously rethink your business model.
This reminds me a bit of the record pressing industry. There are only two plants in the entire country that cut master discs for pressing vinyl records and one of them had massive fire in 2019 cutting production capacity in half at a time when vinyl sales are soaring worldwide. It seems that during the lean times, when there isn’t enough business to keep these kinds of factories in business, the smaller ones close down and then one disaster comes along and you get a situation like this where the entire industry is dependent on one production facility to turn out product. Obviously the solution is for some other supplier to go into the business, but I’m sure it’s massive investment to start up a facility like this.
I hope things get fixed soon. I do not like printing out my own patterns. I do not like using the projectors either. Much prefer tissue paper patterns.
Amazed that JoAnns still does the pattern sales with this going on.
Are there any printing companies in Canada that can do the job. Where are Jalie patterns printed?
That’s a great question.
Jalie does not print on tissue paper, if memory serves me right.
Ah, ok.
There are printers in every hamlet in the nation and across the globe. Key phrase is “large format”. If patternmakers want to insure they have second options for printing they should format their patterns to fit smaller printers. It’s a pain but it will set you free.
I do that with mine. There’s a printer locally that does 24″ wide x (whatever) length – and such printing shops are not rare. They’re expensive in the short run, but the tech they use is certainly worth considering and at scale would likely be reasonably priced.
The problem with local printers is they can’t print on tissue. Only regular paper. The thickness adds up for larger patterns, causing extra cost, both in printing and shipping, for indie pattern designers. Tissue is the best and most affordable option all around.
Your local printer can print on lighter paper – they just choose not to. And the problems with shipping will just get worse. But tissue doesn’t really solve that problem, just makes it a little less bad. The industry is going to just skip over paper in the future. It’s already here with downloads and projector files. And if you really ask your customers, lots of them hate tissue. But I’m not here to convince you to change from McCalls if it works for you.
I believe the Big 4 refers to Vogue, McCalls, Simplicity, and Butterick, not New Look.
You couldn’t come up with a better plan to undermine your indie competition — not that there was such a plan — than to have the sole pattern printer break down indefinitely, amirite?
This is the downside of industry consolidation. It seems like you’re maximizing efficiencies by eliminating redundancies, while you’re simultaneously creating tremendous vulnerabilities.
Thank you for the correction, Peter.
Right you are. Having used McCalls as my printer in the past I would not suspect them of undermining their competition – at least not directly. However, if your business model uses McCalls as your sole source of printing, you are in effect operating not as an independent, but as a division of McCalls. Because they can charge you whatever they want as long as it is less then your (perceived) alternative and they can put you out of business overnight. In fact, I suspect that they charge you enough to offset their own printing so that their Commercial Printing Division makes enough money to keep them in business. If that is OK with you, fine, but recognize that. As for all the questions about someone creating an alternative printing business that prints tissue and can make money doing it, good luck with that. I doubt many can visualize the mechanical monster that such printing is. Does anyone even manufacture that sort of giant contraption anymore? And the source for tissue paper that wide? I can make a wild guess that their one source for that paper is one fire (or pandemic) away from disappearing in China. I don’t like to give advice, but if it were me, I would take this hiccup (if it is) as a welcome wake up call.
You can get wide format tissue paper from a number of sources in the U.S. The problem is that most printer/plotters cannot handle the thin tissue. It jams and may not hold ink well.
A press printer is a completely different beast. Think newspaper printing press. That is similar to what they are using. Very large, very expensive and questionable if that sort of investment can pay for itself before it becomes obsolete. I really do not see patterns being printed on tissue 10 years from now.
I’m surprised to learn there’s only one large-scale tissue printer. My guess is that they’ve been taken down by ransomware, which has become an increasingly prevalent problem. Cyberattackers have targeted hospitals, local city governments, school systems … Plus, I’m sure, a lot of private companies who decide to quietly pay the ransom.
It’s just speculation, though. Thanks for sharing. I’m interested to see if and how the industry might change because of this.
Huh. Good thing I use almost exclusively pdf patterns from only about 3-4 indie designers not mentioned here. My printing and taping game is hella strong. Bonus? I do know how to draft my own. I am just lazy about it.
The problem with local printers is they can’t print on tissue. Only regular paper. The thickness adds up for larger patterns, causing extra cost, both in printing and shipping, for indie pattern designers. Tissue is the best and most affordable option all around.
And if McCalls burns down?
The earlier ‘Stretch and Sew’ patterns worked for a large number of sewers and is more Eco-friendly since you don’t have the paper waste that comes with tissue patterns (nor the storage problems).
Worked for The McCall’s for 39 yrs. Funny in all those years we were NEVER “hacked”. Was a wonderful place to work until….
CSS wanted total control and treated us as if we were ****
The only ones that benefited from the sale know who they are and an iconic company is going down for the sake of lining their pockets.
I will always be faithful to the McCall Pattern Company that was my livelihood and the people that were/are family.
Let me make it clear I would have not resigned had the incoming administration had not been so toxic. They did not appreciate longevity and dedication.
I’m sorry for all the companies that commented as some I dealt with regularly .
I worked there too but quit because of the administration. They got everything needed to stay successful but because they did not appreciate dedication, so, what goes around comes around…
I hope those indie companies can figure things out! Best of luck!
So where are butterick patterns printed…same owner…use that printer
Butterick patterns are also printed at the McCalls facility. But you raise an interesting point. Before CSS Industries acquires Simplicity in 2017, Simplicity must have printed its tissue somewhere else. I wonder where?
Its sad that this printing plant is so vulnerable. Our public hospital was hacked- and has no money to pay a ransom. They were back up in a week. What kind of archaic tech is this printer using? And why haven’t they invested in security? Seems to be some poor decision making here. I will be buying a lot of indie sewing patterns and printing myself at home.
BTW, Butterick, McCalls, Vogue and Simplicity are all one big company now. They own New Look and Burda, at least in the US. I don’t know if Burda prints US patterns in the US. Vogue/Butterick/McCalls owns Kwik Sew, but they don’t use tissue either. Jalie doesn’t use tissue. It’s going to be interesting to see what ripples this has. I know many people only go to Joann’s (who are struggling) when patterns are on sale.
Actually Kwik Sew once it was sold to McCalls was printed on tissue. The original Kwik Sew patterns from Minnesota were all printed on regular paper.
Very true, in regards to going to Joann’s. Their fabric is too expensive for me and the Big 4 are far too expensive as well, so I only ever go when there are big sales. Lately, I haven’t even noticed them having a pattern sale…probably because there are hardly any new patterns coming in, so they don’t need to clear any drawer space with a sale.
I’m way late to this, but have a couple of questions/comment:
1. if wide format on tissue is the issue, why can’t other printers use a narrower format on tissue? Or did I misread the comments and there is only 1 printer for tissue regardless of size? It seems like many pattern pieces will fit on a 24-36″ wide sheet of tissue. Remember, fabric used to be only 36″ wide, if that. Yes. some pieces would need to be printed in 2 parts, but is that such an issue? I know it would require making new print layouts. I’d think the narrower sheets would be much easier to fold up again too.
2. if McCall continues to be shut down, would people rather have printing options in other parts of the world, have pattern companies go only PDF or go out of business? I totally understand the “keep it in the U.S.” thinking, that is absolutely my preference also. But IF faced with print in another country, no more printed patterns, or no Big 4 pattern companies at all… what’s the decision then?
3. if it is ransom-ware, even if they did pay the ransom, sometimes the bastards take the money and run, leaving no fix. If they are restoring files from backups, it’s entirely possible that they may be re-infecting themselves. They may need to go back to before they had the problem and face losing files since last known good backup. Been there, done that, *not* fun. And if you misjudge when the issue cropped up, you are back to square one.
I had noticed the small number of patterns the last release, but did not know it was due to the only printer that does this being shut down. I assumed it was CSS cutting things to the bone to squeeze more profit out of less.
It is not that simple to change over to smaller plotter format. The press uses a plate that is a fixed size. That is why the big 4 will not use copyshop size patterns. They would have to resize it and take $$away from the now inoperable press.
Actually Kwik Sew once it was sold to McCalls was printed on tissue. The original Kwik Sew patterns from Minnesota were all printed on regular paper.
I was wondering what was happening. Per year, there are usually a half dozen releases. I like to check back to the websites (that’s another big change this year!) and scan through the new releases. But in 2020 they had slowed down a lot and each new collection that actually managed to come out was much smaller in number. With so many people staying home and either needing a hobby (or jumping back into an old hobby or finally having the time to dedicate to sewing), this was an awful time for all this nonsense. Also very interesting to see that the Independent pattern companies aren’t all that independent after all. Time to open a new printing location or two…I’m sure they wouldn’t have any trouble finding employees.
Printing the patterns on tissue like CSS does requires an actual printing press to handle the size and volume of the patterns. It is not done on a wide format printer which are actually plotters. I truly believe that pdf patterns are the future of the industry. It’s a lower cost to the pattern designer/producer because it puts the cost of printing the physical pattern onto the consumer.
As to the hack, there is a way to fix ransomware. You need a drive to boot from, then you run ant-virus on the infected drive until it is gone. Back the data off and wipe the infected drive. It is tedious and a real pain in the butt, however, it can be fixed without paying the ransom.
Yes, PDF is definitely the way to go. They are very popular in the sewing community, at least my corner of it. Very convenient. And who doesn’t like the instant gratification of buying something from the comfort of your own home and receiving it immediately? The only problem is that, from what I have heard, the “Big Four” are not too good with PDF, at least Simplicity. The formatting is bad, wastes paper, requires archaic programming, etc. If they can get their PDF patterns on par with Indie brands, like Sew Over It or True Bias, they’ll be smooth sailing.
The malware attack on McCall’s printing computers might explain the issue I encountered last week and which I’ve described elsewhere in another thread. My apologies if you’ve already read my post elsewhere….
NO RESPONSIBILTY ACCEPTED FOR FACTORY PATTERN ERROR
I purchased 5 copies of McCall’s M8058 from my local sewing supply store several months ago for an easy sewing project for my sewing group this year. I purchased 2 x Size 6-14 and 3 x Size 14-22. When our group met last week, we were all dismayed to find the incorrect pattern tissue in ALL of the 5 patterns I had purchased. The instructions were correct and matched the dress pictured on the pattern envelope. However, although the pattern tissue had the correct number printed on all the pattern pieces (M8058) the pattern tissue provided was for a wrap dress and NOT for the dress pictured on the front of the envelope. There has obviously a factory error in which the pattern number (M8058) was printed on the incorrect pattern tissue. As I no longer have the receipt for my purchases, which is requirement for a refund, I decided to contact McCall’s via their contact form and explain my predicament. Following NO response after 24 hours, I tried again, and once more received NO RESPONSE. I then messaged McCall’s on their Facebook page. Not even this resulted in a response. I finally wrote a post on their Facebook Page, which was immediately deleted, with NO COMMUNICATION. I am extremely disappointed and surprised that what I believed to be a reputable company of long standing in the community has so little regard for their customers and accepts no responsibility for their mistakes!
This may seem like a conspiracy theory, but hear me out on this. The company that owns CSS aquired them via a hostile takeover. That does not work with provite companies like most of the Indie pattern makers. What is the best way to kill your competiton? Buy them out or prevent them producing product. The big 4 are guaranteed print space, it is their company. Indie patterns no guarantees. A computer issue, printing takes a hiatus, the big 4 can eat the set back, most indie companies cannot. There is an alternative for Indie companies. Either go completely digitial or find a printer (I happen to have a shop that can do this) that can print on tissue with a plotter/printer, not a press. Just a thought.
Hello everyone,
I just came across the article above and sew your discussion. It seems that the Universe wanted me to speak up, o here I am 🙂
My name is Piotr Toczynski and I’m the CEO of Axlo – company that specializes in printing for sewing pattern industry for more than 7 years already. We have automatic printing and folding lines for paper sewing patterns production. We also print brochures, envelopes and other kinds of packaging for sewing pattern makers based mostly in France, UK and Germany. We print and assemble all the elements for more than 40 brands in Europe already, and we do it under one roof. We don’t print on tissue paper however but on 70 -80 gms smooth white paper but we can automaticly print and fold sewing patterns up to 914mm width and 5 meters long. Our productions are already shipped worldwide to our clients’ retailers so maybe we might be an interesting alternative in cases like the one above?
We produce sewing pattern kits every day and we handle productions from 20-30 sewing pattern sets up to 50 000 sewing patterns per order. We can handle the biggest orders within 3-4 weeks and the delivery to USA is not so long these days.
I don’t know if I’m allowed to write such a comment here but if the Universe wanted me to show up, who am I to fight it? 😉
We are based in Poland in Europe. Her’s my personal number if any of you is interested to check us out – +48 505 919 236
My email: p.toczynski@axlo.pl
I guess the universe got to you a little late. The Big 4 are back up and running, have been for a while. For U.S. and Canada based customers, Sublime Grafx caters to sewists and indie pattern companies. We print on tissue paper, tracing paper and the usual 20lb copy paper. Cost to ship domestic will always be cheaper than shipping to the U.S. or Canada from the EU. I am the owner of Sublime Grafx. Website is https://www.sublimegrafx.com
Hi Lynda, thank you for your feedback! As for the universe being late, yes it’s one way of looking at it. Another way is that thanks to this something great will happen. I can’t wait to find out what would that be 🙂
I went on your website and I can see the great work your doing! It’s been a fantastic rollercoaster adventure for us since we’ve started working with the sewing community and I need to show our successes as well at some point too!
It’s good to have an alternative to the Big 4 in the US. I know how important it is for our customers in Europe to have a reliable partner that secures the risks for them. As for the shipping costs to US, you’re also right – they will be always more expensive than a cost to ship domestic, that’s why we are focusing on lowering the total costs of the production of whole sets of sewing patterns with shipping costs included. And in this area we are veeery strong 🙂
Try us out if you need some help with your orders one day!
Best,
Piotr
Delays at the Manhattan printing facility will not occur next year (or any time after). The plant is being shut down in December 2021. The new regime is running the pattern industry into the ground. This is what happens when a company is bought by a conglomerate that is only looking at making a quick buck. The pattern industry is not a big money maker any more but many people are still passionate about it and offer the products. IG Design will make every decision based on profit and within a few years tissue patterns will be a thing of the past. A very heart breaking announcement since this facility has been operated by dedicated employees. Some have been there since the plant opened. Over 40 years and then out on the street with very little severance.