The scale of The National Needlearts Association (TNNA) summer trade show, held from June 13-17 for the first time in Cleveland was noticeably smaller this year in terms of attendance, booth size and the rise of small, indie companies.

An increase in membership dues — from $60 to $195 for retailers and affiliates, including designers, teachers, publishers and other industry service providers — appeared to be the main reason for the lighter crowds on the show floor. I heard from several retailers that had decided not to shoulder higher dues on top of travel costs.

A few of the major companies had noticeably smaller booths and distributor Knitting Fever International was absent from the show. This comes around the same time as further industry shakeups, including the recent closing of Classic Elite Yarns and yarn store WEBS purchasing manufacturer Tahki Stacy Charles a few months ago.

Emma’s Yarn.

What has increased is the number smaller companies, from indie dyers such as Emma’s Yarn — run by 16-year-old Emma Galati and her older sister, Aspen (their parents own the Four Purls Yarn Shop in Winter Haven, Florida) — and Cashmere People Yarns, which works with a collective of women in Tajikistan and Afghanistan to hand spin and hand dye Cashgora and Cashmere yarns.

A display of the new Eco-Cashmere from Blue Sky Fibers.

A big debate among folks in the industry is how these smaller companies, many of which sell retail as well as wholesale, can balance the two sides without undercutting local yarn shops that are already facing challenges from big box craft stores and online classes. Not all of the indies do both — Emma’s Yarn only sells wholesale and does events, while Trailhead Yarns, a Canadian dyer that specializes in plant-based yarns like cotton, linen, and Tencel, decided to focus only on wholesale just before TNNA.

Baby yak and silk yarn from mYak.

However, despite the uncertainty in the industry, there was also a feeling among the yarn shop owners I spoke with that the indie dyers and companies were creating excitement among knitters and allowing them to offer unique products that their customers couldn’t find at the major retailers or even at competing yarn shops.

The show was also a great opportunity for trend-spotting. Here are some of the product and design trends I saw:

• Speckled yarn and sets of multicolored mini-skeins continue to be popular.
• Mohair is making a resurgence in both yarn and designs.
• There was an increase in eco-friendly yarns, with new recycled Cashmere from Blue Sky Fibers and a new small yarn company based in New York City called Raw Material No. 52 that promoted its recycled Cashmere.
• Similarly, there were more businesses specializing in fair trade yarns, like Cashmere People and mYak, which sources its fiber from a cooperative of nomadic Tibetan yak and goat herders.
• Weaving, particularly tapestry weaving with art yarn, is growing in popularity. The Schacht Spindle Co. had an interactive installation that they called the Grande Loom, a giant frame loom that stood over 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide, that they encouraged show attendees to use.
• Colorwork yokes, dolman sleeves, and combining color and texture were standout features of the designs on display at the Thursday night fashion show and in booths on the show floor.

It will be interesting to see how the show continues to evolve. The winter market, traditionally held on the West Coast, is set for Jan. 31-Feb. 3, 2019 in Portland, Oregon.

+++++

Lisa Chamoff is a freelance journalist in the New York Metro area who specializes in home design, real estate,and healthcare. When she’s not writing, or knitting shawls and sweaters, Lisa runs Indie Untangled (www.indieuntangled.com), a marketplace and blog that promotes the work of yarn dyers, pattern designers,and crafters of knitting-related accessories.