SURTEX is an annual trade show for the surface pattern design industry, connecting artists and art licensing agencies with manufacturers, retailers, and licensees who want to create products with their artworks. The show attracts art buyers from across many industries: home decor and furnishings, fashion and apparel, beauty, giftware, stationery, and much more. Art buyers walk the aisles of SURTEX looking for artwork to buy or license for their brand, and this year’s show brought nearly 200 exhibitors unique offerings to the show. Since the show takes place in New York City’s Javits Center alongside the National Stationery Show and ICFF, there are many art buyers and manufacturers in attendance, all looking for what’s new and marketable in the world of design.
Recent FIT grads Natalie Horvath, Joely Singer, and Elle Carlton.
A diverse range of artwork is shown at SURTEX, with highly marketable commercial work from art and brand licensors clustered near the front of the hall, and indie designers and co-operative print studios clustered in the back and at the perimeter of the show in the “Design District” and “Atelier” sections. Some universities and art colleges, like Pratt and FIT, also host booths at SURTEX, showcasing the work of their talented design students or recent grads. Booths for big companies and art licensing firms tended to be the largest, sometime 20’x10’ or larger, while individual artists opted for 10’x10’ booths, or even 10’x5’ kiosks.
Artist Kim Senn of Senn & Sons was also exhibiting at SURTEX for the first time, in a 10’x10’ booth that showcased large-scale mockups of her work, as well as a selection of products that featured her pattern designs. Senn offered a glimpse into her portfolio in a hardbound book with colorful mockups of her designs, as well as a catalog and branded marketing materials to take away. Senn shared that for first-timers, it’s wise to plan for two full days to set up your booth and ensure everything looks perfect. “Make room for error,” Senn says, adding that a buffer day can help if you run into unforeseen problems.
Another first-time exhibitor at SURTEX, Green Hound Press, run by artist Amanda Brady, echoed Senn’s advice for SURTEX newbies. Brady recommended developing a signature style before showing at SURTEX — she’d dialed in her artistic style while running her stationery company, before pivoting to a career as a surface pattern designer. “You can do anything, but you can’t do everything,” Brady says. A cohesive aesthetic draws art buyers to your booth and builds trust that you’ll deliver something comparable when they commission designs. Brady made the most of her kiosk space by mocking up new designs on fabric swatches, adding a touchpoint for art-buyers.
Further down the aisle, Allison Cole was showing her work at SURTEX for the third time. Cole had previously exhibited with an art licensing agency for her first SURTEX experience, and after building up a larger inventory of artwork, decided to try a solo booth. Cole suggests walking the show in advance if you plan to exhibit at SURTEX as an individual, to help set goals and expectations. She also offered a target of preparing 50-100 artworks in advance of the show, to have enough work for art buyers to browse when they visit your booth.
Another option for artists looking to get involved in SURTEX is to go through a pattern studio, offering an opportunity for artists to get their work in front of a larger audience, and taking a portion of the sale price of a pattern in exchange. Pattern Observer was a new exhibitor for 2018, bringing artwork from their founding members, as well as art from their member group that’s scattered around the globe. If a pattern studio isn’t a fit, artists may consider heading to SURTEX as part of a collective, as Austral Collective did. To create a successful collective booth, the artists behind Austral collective insist that having complimentary art styles is a must. The three artist members of Austral Collective are friends who often work collaboratively and spent a year prepping to come to SURTEX together.
Art licensors are often searching for artists to bring to shows like SURTEX, and add to their roster of artists. Prominent artist rep Lilla Rogers Studio hosts a Global Talent Search annually, and the winner is offered representation at shows like SURTEX. The Lilla Rogers booth at SURTEX was filled with piles of artist portfolios, all with a cohesive style of work. While artists represented by Lilla Rogers sometimes stop by the booth to visit, art reps are responsible for being in the booth to talk with buyers and make sales.
“Being at SURTEX has given me career clarity,” said Malaysian artist Marini, who exhibited at SURTEX to reach a global audience of art buyers. Marini echoed the sentiments of many of the individual artists I spoke to at the show: SURTEX is a valuable place to learn about the surface pattern design industry, and connect with both art buyers and fellow artists.
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Erin Dollar is an artist, surface pattern designer, and founder of Cotton & Flax, a collection of boldly patterned textile home decor that is designed and manufactured in California. Her work has been sold in 100+ retail shops, from indie boutiques, to large mass-market retailers like West Elm, CB2, and Need Supply. By growing her ecommerce business to accommodate wholesale buyers, she has built a sustainable business that generates income year-round, and built a platform for long-term growth. See her webinar, Wholesale for Craft Business, in our archives.