CSS Industries, the company that owns the Big 4 sewing pattern brands (Simplicity, McCall’s, Vogue, and Butterick) has announced that it is being acquired by Design Group, a UK-based company specializing in gift wrap, greeting cards, bags, and creative play products. Design Group paid $9.40 per share in an all cash transaction valued at approximately $88 million.
“We have known Paul and his team for many years, and we believe that there is a strong cultural fit between the two organizations,” commented Christopher J. Munyan, CSS’ President and Chief Executive Officer, referring to Paul Fineman, Design Group’s Chief Executive Officer.
Besides owning the sewing pattern brands, CSS Industries produces gift wrap, buttons, ribbon and trim, and other craft products.
“CSS’ vision, values and culture are closely aligned with those of Design Group, including their focus on expanding into complementary categories and growth through acquisition,” said Munyan in the press release.
CSS Industries is a publicly traded company and, as you can see, the stock price over the last two years has dropped over 80% and now trades where it did in the 1980s.
How it happened
In an effort to diversity and stabilize revenue the company acquired McCalls in December 2016 for $14 million and Simplicity in November 2017, from Wilton Brands, for $64 million.
In 2019, an activist investor, which is an investment fund that buys shares in a distressed company in order to take control or force a sale, accumulated nearly 10% of the company’s stock. CSS then took a number of financial steps to make a hostile takeover more difficult which further depressed the share price. In early January it was reported that they were in talks with the activist investor and it appears the result of that negotiation was the sale announced today.
Where does this leave us?
Now the sewing industry finds itself in a situation in which the Big 4 sewing pattern companies, all of which have rich histories in the United States, are owned by a British firm. Remember that Butterick was founded in 1863 by Ebenezer Butterick, an American tailor born in Sterling, Massachusetts. The McCall Pattern Company was founded in 1870 in New York City by James McCall, a Scottish tailor. Vogue was originally Vogue Pattern Service founded in 1899 as a spinoff of Vogue Magazine. And Simplicity Patterns was founded by Russian immigrant James Shapiro in New York City in 1927.
The Big 4 have changed hands two or three times in the last five years, each an effort to create larger conglomerates. What will be their fate now? Perhaps Design Group will hang on to their sewing pattern brands and nurture and grow them, even though they are certainly outliers to their core business. But I think it’s also possible that Design Group could bundle them and sell them off to a company for which they are a better strategic fit than one with a primary focus in gift wrap and party supplies. Or Design Group could shut them down entirely if it turns out they aren’t very profitable over time.
To me, the bigger question is whether all four of these brands are strong enough to withstand the years to come, potentially being passed from owner to owner looking for profits. Given the competition from indie pattern brands with strong followings that offer both digital downloads and print patterns, will all four legacy brands still be here in a decade? Unless they land with an owner that’s truly dedicated to sewing, I predict no.
They should be VERY careful. Indie pattern designers are quite talented and the current generations are anti-large corporation.
I get most of my patterns from independent studios now.
Could you tell me some of the independent studios you get your patterns from?
One place to start would be Pattern Review’s best patterns of 2019. It’s a mix of Big 4 and indie pattern companies, but these have been vetted by a large group of avid sewists so you know they’re good. You’ll discover some new brands that will get you started with indie companies. https://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=2628402
Please help me. My Butterick sewing machine does not sew. I’ve not been able to use it (new 3 years ago). Any advice would be helpful. The PF symbol comes on. If I use the manual nob on the side, it stitches backwards. Please help.
Style Arc, Pattern Emporium, The Fold Line, Liesl & Co, Atelier Scammit, sorry, can’t remember the others I use. My two favourites are the first two (both Australian).
Hi where do you find independant pattern makers? I’ve been looking for a while and vogue is about the fanciest I can find.
In my opinion,this is a result of Americans not passing along grt traditions and skills that use to be taught from gen to gen. I use to offer free sew lessons just to get peo interested, but most just didn’t want to do the work. I personally nev need to buy ano pattern in my life bec I have 3 of the store metal cabinets full in many sizes( yes, bought those for $50 ea when my local piece goods shop went out of bus decades ago). But I feel sorry for people that may miss out on that. Etsy is a good source for patterns but peo are gourging prices like crazy on the old Vogue Designer originals.
But the good news is (sewing machine manuf, here’s a hint for you with your outrageous pricing too – fig out a way for your machines to DESIGN the patterns, after all, they do it all ANYWAY, don’t they???).
Most, like mine have a niche they support. Do watch though because some companies don’t have skilled pattern makers. Do a little research. https://sewchicpatterns.com/
Check out The Fold Line online. They are all about Indie patterns
Moodfabrics.com—American—fabulous free patterns, but generally only for experienced sewers, as the directions are minimal at best; download & print.
ClosetCore.com—Canadian—great patterns & sewing instructions—not free, but worth it; download & print.
StyleArc.com—Australian—another wonderful pattern company. Not free, but great patterns, and easy instructions.
Foldline.com—hundreds of patterns from indie companies + the big 4.
I’ve been sewing my own clothes for over 50 years. I’ve taught sewing, and have drafted patterns.
I much prefer indie companies because their sizing is comparable to RTW.
When I was a young woman, I was 5’11 & wore a size 8 in RTW. When using big 4 patterns, I had to size up 2-3 sizes + lengthen to make the clothes fit.
Now that I’m older, I’m 5’9 1/2”, and wear a 14-16 in RTW.
I recently purchased a Simplicity pattern on Etsy, and according to the measurements on the pattern, I needed between sizes 18-20. It turned out beautifully, but only after making a muslin first. And even with that I still needed to make major adjustments with the actual fabric: took up the shoulders; moved the neckline up; added more darts; changed the armscye front and back. When I finished, it looked great, but I tossed the pattern in the garbage. Way too much work☹️
I don’t have these issues with the indie companies, plus THEIR PATTERNS FIT!
So, no more big 4 for me.
I’ve used the 4 pattern companies for years and have noticed such a downfall in the patterns and instructions themselves. I’ve lately been purchasing patterns from the 60’s because I love the style at that time. What I’ve noticed is just the ink used has diminished. Now you can hardly see the outlines of the patterns even with glasses on. There was no problem seeing anything on older patterns because the ink was so clear. It’s as if a printer is out of ink. Is it cost just to make the patterns seeable? The instructions used to be clear. Now the companies assume everyone is a seasoned sewer and need no instructions. Just the pictures alone make the instructions easier to follow. Maybe that’s why Etsy and eBay are losing so many patterns from that era. The companies have done it to themselves. The patterns are nice but some instructions are incorrect. Who oversees the instructions? Maybe that is why indie patterns have become so popular. Obviously there is no design team who takes the time to be sure pattern instructions are clear, concise and correct.
Who’s the owner?
It’s in the blog post.
I like vogue patterns but also use a lot of indie patterns as they cater more for larger sizes than the big 4 pattern companies. I also get frustrated because vogue advertise new season patterns in USA but I can’t find them in the U.K. The big 4 need to make all patterns available in all sizes from small to extra large, and available world wide as the indie pattern designers do. Style Arc are very comparable with the quality of their designs with vogue patterns and are readily available world wide
How do you print out patterns from the internet? Do you have to print it out in several pieces and tape them together. Sorry, I don’t mean to sound stupid but I haven’t sewn and I am not great on computers. I haven’t sewn anything for myself in a while.There is nowhere to buy patterns like Mccalls, Butterick, Vogue…? I’m in the U.S. and just heard a couple of weeks ago about Joanns’, our fabric store going out of business. I went online tonight to see if there were any updates and read that a company in the U.K. bought the last of our biggest pattern makers. I searched online to see what patterns Joanns’ is carrying and it was a mess. This really makes me sad as I have sewn since 7th grade in Jr. High. I think I could make up some patterns for simple things like lounging pants or pajama bottoms by copying some I have that fit but other things, I just don’t know. Well, maybe it woukd be good for my aging brain to have to figure this out. If anyone knows anything about this, please let me know!! 😊😊
You can buy printed ‘big 4’ patterns thru Simplicity.com or Joann’s online or Hobby Lobby has 2-3 brands (not Vogue).
Also, Pattern Review.com sells many brands including independent brands.
If you follow weekly ads for Joann’s or Simplicity.com, you should be able to purchase patterns every 1-2 months and around certain holidays, at their deep discount price of $2-4 for Simplicity, New Look, McCall’s and $3-7 for Butterick and Vogue.
Unfortunately, you have to either pay a shipping fee or buy in bulk to avoid the shipping cost. But it is worth registering and getting on their email list to be alerted to sales.
If you download patterns, you should be able to send the file to a photocopy shop to print the pattern to scale; patterns offered for download can be printed on 8-1/2 x 11 paper at home and taped together OR can be sent to a copy shop with a large format printer (for blue prints, etc) where they (typically) match a 4” square in the pattern file) to print the pattern at the correct scale. That typically costs $5-10 per copy.
Hope that helps.
I would got o PatternReview.com to learn more. It has both free and paid memberships.
I would miss the quality of Vogue.
I’m surprised you still think of Vogue as a quality pattern company. I started sewing in the 1970s and (pre-Internet, remember?) inadvertently chose a Vogue pattern for my first try. Wow! Did they walk me through every step of construction! The pattern instructions were so thorough, they were a written sewing class. Best of all, the clothes fit perfectly. Because I’ve been doing historical sewing and home dec sewing for the past 20 years, I haven’t bought garment patterns. What a shock to find Vogue patterns are now as difficult as Simplicity to decode. They assume the sewist has tons of familiarity with their techniques so there’s no explanation of what they want.
I definitely have to agree with you about decoding patterns these days. I was making a blazer for my grandson this past fall and could not figure out what they were asking me to do with the vent. Now even though I have 50+ years experience and actually have taught sewing, I haven’t done a lot of garment construction for years. I figured that must be the problem. After multiple days and several hours of trying to figure this out, I consulted my daughter–a costume designer, and she couldn’t figure it out. There was no way this was even going to work out.
As a retiree was a degree in Home Economics and over forty years of teaching experience, I learned early on that there are mistakes made when drafting patterns and writing the instructions. As a jr. in a college tailoring class making a wool coat, I was having difficulty with the large unique patch pockets that were partially lined. My professor also had difficulty. She contacted the McCall’s pattern and found out there had been an error when the pattern piece was drafted. They told her what to do to make the necessary corrections. Years later sewing a husband and wife designer Vogue, I had a problem with the instructions. I contacted Vogue and they admitted the directions were not written correctly for one of the final steps. Very disappointed as the dress was made from silk shantung and I had machine embroidered the entire dress. As a person who always finished everything started. This dress is still hanging in my closet.
I recently sewed a jacket using a Vogue Pattern. Not only were the directions obtuse or missing, some of the pattern pieces were not accurate. This must be a way for VP to save money!
Yes, I totally agree that patterns all assume you’ve been seeing for years. The least amount the better I guess. Now when I pick up an older pattern, I have no questions. That’s one of the reasons I sew older patterns now. Tissue is thicker and instructions are easy to understand.
I was a Pattern maker for vogue and Butterick Company in the late 60’s. Great experience,
I taught Sewing/Dressmaking at
my local Adult School for 35 yrs!
Company was located on 6th Ave. and Spring St. NY
We all need to complain to whoever is taking over the 4 pattern company. Old patterns are definitely better. Can’t read new patterns and they are so light it’s difficult to read.
Susan, would you like another job doing sewing videos?
When I first started sewing (50s/60s) I always used Vogue patterns primarily because my aunt used Vogue patterns . Vogue pattern instructions taught me many little tips, tricks, etc— Vogue pattern instructions taught you how to sew. I always maintained back then that a sewer needed to know “how to sew” in order to make a garment from a Simplicity (for example) pattern—the little fine points were missing in the instruction’s which makes the difference between looking “homemade” and well made/professionally sewn. Just my 2 cents worth.
I’ve started buying Vogue patterns on Etsy. I love stuff from the 60s on.
I am looking for aSimplicity pattern ESP Sure number 5985 house dress from 1980s would you have one?
Look on ebay or Etsy
The quality and the designs followed what we were seeing on the racks. The idea behind sewing was to create designer garments in a custom fit and custom fabric choices. I love the guidance from simplicity patterns
You say owned by the Brits like it’s a bad thing?
There is more chance of keeping some semblance of a commercial pattern company with it under one umbrella than several small ones but to be honest the commercial world chances so fast these days it is IMPOSSIBLE to predict what may or may not happen in the future.
I’m not sure I’m saying it’s a bad thing. I’m saying it’s worth noting. These brands were born in the US and have had a 100-year history here so this change of ownership to a company based in the UK feels significant.
I get what you’re saying, Abby. Our textile industry supplying American-made fabrics has been nearly wiped out in the decades since the 1970s due to international trade agreements, cheap imports, etc. In 1982, Singer laid off the last 500 workers at its Elizabeth, NJ factory and American-made sewing machines became a thing of the past. So losing the Big Four pattern companies feels like closing the book on the 19th century story of American innovation in sewing-related industries. Now our fabrics, threads, notions, our sewing machines, and even our patterns are imported from overseas. Which is problematic, really, when so many of today’s new sewing enthusiasts are motivated by sustainability.
I totally agree with you on every aspect. This situation saddens me.
The company that bought our pattern companies sell gift wrap, etc. Not verse in sewing patterns. I don’t think its good at all. I have been trying to find an online subscription business where I could purchase McCalls, Butterick, Vogue & Kwik sewings pattern but couldn’t find it anymore. Now I know why. I was able to purchase great patterns at discounted prices & it was great
I agree! See my comment. I am so disappointed!
You’re right in that it’s significant. However, not as much significant for being a non-American company but significant in that they’re not interested in sewing or people who so. They want the profit and if they don’t get, our pattern companies will be gone.
I note in the “takeover” advices, that McCallas was founded by a Scottish tailor, albeit in the States. Scottish people are from the UK.
we as crafters need to make sure we support the Big 4 and purchase pattern instead of downloading from the net
I downloaded my first pattern from Burda recently, but still prefer purchasing a paper pattern, frankly. I’m afraid that has partly to do with my age, but when you can avoid taping a bunch of 8-1/2×11 sheets together, printed makes sense!
I am grateful that many young women have taken an interest in sewing and I love that one can now find many like-minded people in the online sewing community for support. It is ironic, however, that in this new environment, the Big 4 might fail!
I down loaded a Butterick pattern the other day and it was 112, yes you read right pages. I think I might need a bottle of wine to tape them all together , wait maybe that’s a bad idea. LOL
I’m glad it was a British firm that bought the Big4… I would have been heartbroken if China had done so. I have been wondering how I might by British products since Brexit and now you have made it super easy for me… I just go to my local fabric store and get the patterns I’ve been drooling over for the last few years and bingo I get what I need and support the UK at the same time! <3 <3 <3
Why would you have been heartbroken if a Chinese company had purchased them?
Because it’s the reason patterns make no sense…have incorrect measurements..paper is so thin…lines fade out….and multiple sizes on a single pattern….I only buy vintage pattern …before they went overseas 😒
Maggie
The company sells gift wrap & greeting cards. Not versed in pattern making. Makes a big difference to me. Also, do you think the selling prices will go up and/or not be available at discounted prices? I think that’s a huge possibility, sadly!
The British are coming, and they are taking our country right out from under our noses.
This from the a perspon in the country which has already stripped Britian of many of it’s industrial & commercial assets? I know many people who worked for McCalls in England, so this is nothing new really.
Well, seeing as how we in the UK are expected to allie more closely with the US, its refreshing to see some of those links are coming to the UK rather than from here to the America.
One word – Cadbury’s!
Perhaps this will enable other countries to pay a more reasonable price for patterns. While we here in the States may have to pay more, I believe if patterns were more reasonable price worldwide it would benefit us all. Or perhaps I am being naive and hopeful.
As is the rest of the world!
I to find it significant in a bad way, that our sewing heritage is now offshore. We did used to have a very strong textile sector but that got taken off shore decades ago. I can’t imagine the buyers/ owners not raising the pattern prices. That really would be the death knell.
Big 4 has been falling in quality from my consumer perspective. Vogue just doesn’t compare, historically. Organizationally, they seem chaotic, as seen in ordering from mccalls.com. I doubt that Americans will keep buying Big 4 patterns if the prices ascend. I’m not worried for us, though, for a few reasons:
— Though sewing almost disappeared in America, due to lack of 4-H and Home Economics classes, quilting became an easy entry and now the quilters and the young people are branching out into garment making. Sewing’s revival demands American fashion fabrics.
— I expect industries in general to return to America, or better, to revive with startup small businesses, not large corporations.
— There is a general trend toward handcrafts and small businesses. We see it in design, pattern making, garment making and needlecrafts.
— I expect another trend: Going local. Make for and buy from your local community, first, and widen your circles, secondarily. That’s good in most industries. For textiles, if not for patterns, it is best for the environment.
This is a consciousness change in humanity.
Strongly agree! These were American companies founded back in the 1800’s. So to me, this off shore purchase to a foreign country is concerning & truly sad to me. More businesses lost to a foreign entity & one that’s not even in the same line!😞
When CSS took over Simplicity, many of the now-former employees complained loudly about the management’s lack of direction or appreciation for the brand (it’s well documented on Glassdoor). The fact that CSS acquired McCall Pattern Company for $14M, then Simplicity for $64M, then was acquired itself for a pittance above the combined prices by a company that has nothing to do with sewing, doesn’t bode well for the future of “Big 4” brands.
They stopped selling patterns in Canada. If I wanted Simplicity patterns I had to go to the States.
I had no idea that Simplicity patterns were gone from Canada!
I used to buy Simplicity in Canada almost exclusively, and since they have left, I look to other indie designers. I also find that their clothing and costume selections to be not as good as they used to be. Since Historical patterns are on the rise, I fail to see why the Big 4 can’t get those vintage patterns back out.
Some years ago, I had an email from Vogue requesting which older patterns I would like to see re-issued. I sent them my suggestions but never saw anything on that subject again.
I’m reminded of what happened to Singer Sewing Machines. They used to be the standard of the world, but after a succession of selling off the company and name, we have a brand name that no longer has any reputation–the products are poor at best, and have been for quite some time. My concern is the pattern companies have been headed that way. Whether they are based in the U.S. or the U.K., it’s the lack of attention to the quality of the actual product that will do them in.
Having been part of the team at Simplicity for over 35 years, this saddens me more and more. After being bought a few times in the 2000’s, we were owned by Wilton just before CSS came along and made great big promises of a golden future of the brands all being combined. Well, that is certainly now in more danger of becoming a lost business. I hope that somehow brands and that part of the business are strong enough to survive one way or another.
Deb Kreiling, this is indeed very sad.
Honestly. What has been coming out of vogue and McCall’s lately is horrendous. There is no design…it looks like first ear designers..nothing you can wear to work…just a bunch of play wear. I like new look however…they publish the same garment in seasonal colours..it’s the same design…just different fabric. Bring back the designer details and craftsmanship of vogue and styles you can wear to work . The majority of us work….take a look at the new patterns for spring tat vogue use put out .justawful.,…I am glad I have a stash of gorgeous patterns which I will fall back on . Hope it all worksot dwfw
Oh my…I thought I was alone in what I had observed regarding the designs that were under the labels. The changes were not that subtle and I could not understand what was happening to them, all of them. As I go through the Fall 2020 offerings they are so generic, lifeless, and ‘controlled’. It is such an odd feeling to see companies disappear. I wonder if they stand back and observe their labor? I have moved on but will occasionally look to see if there is any positive movement intellectually, aesthetically, or imaginative and creative. In short, I will continue to look for signs of life and hope for the best.
I am totally with you, Pi.
I agree about the lack of design. Everything looks so plain Jane and lifeless.
I haven’t purchased a pattern in a couple years. I guess this is the end of
creativity in patterns for the Big 4 .
I haven’t bought a big 4 pattern in absolutely years. To my European eye they have always looked dated, this is nothing to do with the change in ownership.
As a former , long time employee of The McCall pattern Company it is really heartbreaking to see these companies with a rich history be shuffled around by big corporations. Once McCall and Simplicity were purchased by CSS all creative and innovative thinking was thrown out the window. I don’t think this bodes well for the future of the pattern companies.
Kathy I hear you 100%!
Deb Kreiling and Kathleen Wiktor, my 4-H kids are struggling with newly purchased patterns. For years I have taught that they need to always check a pattern before cutting, and this past fall with the purchase of new patterns was no exception. We would have been better off drafting our own patterns.
And yes, we are concerned as to what the future holds.
It must be even harder to see this change in ownership for former employees. I, also, do not think this bodes well for the future of those [now former] U.S. brands.
I do think there may be some hope in it being a U.K. corporation – I believe they also have a fairly strong interest in home sewing of fashion.
As I see it, the problem isn’t that a British company has purchased four pattern companies started decades ago in the USA. The problem is that manufactured clothing has become so cheap that most people have stopped making their own clothes at all. This, to me, is the larger problem, and has nothing to do with which side of the pond these pattern companies end up on.
I am not certain that the world can any longer support four large pattern brands, all competing with each other for a dwindling market of people wishing to make their own clothes. Yes, it feels very sad for those of us boomers who grew up loving these pattern companies and making our own clothes with them, but just like so many other industries, things have changed and there’s no going back.
That’s an interesting perspective. When CSS Industries bought these brands they removed the competition. Rather than competing with one another, the legacy brands are now competing with the burgeoning indie pattern scene. While I agree with you that sewing your own clothes is no longer cheaper than buying ready to wear, there’s a whole new population of home sewists who are making their own clothes for other reasons entirely.
Great point! There are plenty of people sewing: for the joy of the creative process, sustainability and many go to classes and meet ups for socializing with others and for positive reinforcement- all points that CSS never addressed. I fear it will be the same with the new big corporation
I agree! These young, creative sewists enjoy creating their ‘own’ look, learning what works, and how to socialize with others, and above all, the pure joy of learning!
YES! Sewing for other reasons such as most of the off the rack clothes stink as far as style is concerned. Being able to make your own from fabric you can choose is much more exciting!
true words, living in a disposable world is not sustainable…on any level…thanks for your well said words.
Well, it’s good information to pay attention to in the future. Thank you for your article, Abby!
Having worked in a Jo Ann’s and starting my sewing with the big four, I have mostly switched to Indi designers. Theirs styles or helpful communities driving me to their online shops because of the support.
I am interested in how the relationship with JoAnns and Cashmerette will evolve, good for them in getting true size inclusive patterns in their stores.
I tend to see folks getting into sewing as something one does because they are or feel like an outlier; can’t find your size, need adaptive clothing, economic reasons, or generally can’t find what you want in stores. This is a hard demo to market to as a big company, but our smaller designers can niche their offerings.
America was founded on innovators, and much of our founding industries have retired or been moved overseas, why not have the garment sewing pattern frontier be led by our independent houses.
Joann’s has driven all the good fabric stores out of our area. England and Canada sells better cloth than you can get in the States. I have learned to make my own patterns because I have a handicapped daughter and no RTW fits her. I can read the handwriting on the wall.
I agree this does not bode well for the industry. However I have been sewing for 40 years and mostly I sew now as a means for creativity and getting a good fit. I could afford to spend a lot money if wished on ready to wear but would have to settle for a poor fit and somewhat dodgy construction. I have slowed my pattern buying down with the big 4. Independent designers are somewhat hit or miss. Burdastyle has become more useful to me fit wise.
I’m going to have to disagree with the assumption that people get into sewing because they are an outlier. I love sewing, I love experimenting with fabric, switching out sleeves from one pattern to another, remaking store bought or thrifted garments, repurposing ripped or stained fabrics. I have 4 sewing students-a 12 year old boy who is a Boy Scout and wants to be able to repair his own equipment as well as design and make items that he can’t find in stores, 9 and 12 year old girls that are excited about all the things they can make themselves an all the wonderful fabrics out there, and a 32 year old mom who is discovering a new joy and talent within herself. Part of our lessons is going to Joann’s, looking through pattern books, weighing the pros and cons of the styles, the difficulty, the fabric the pattern is suited for. I have a huge collection of patterns ranging from my grandmother, mom, and aunt’s from the 40’s through the 60’s and including mine from the 70’s through today. McCalls has always been my favorite. A fun day for me is to sit and go through those boxes and plan out my next projects.
I mainly use indie patterns for my gift/Decore/holiday sewing but haven’t tried an indie clothing pattern yet. I hope the big 4 can survive because it is such a rich history. I am of British ancestry and I have to admit that I love British crafting magazines more than ours. I’m very impressed with the whole “maker” movement over there and how easy their patterns are to replicate. My hope is that the big 4 will continue and through new ownership become better with age.
This could be a good thing, possibly. I have a LOT of UK crafters and sewists who buy my sewing pattern downloads, and card printables. Crafting and sewing are big in the UK and Australia. A lot of untapped sales can be made. If the UK uses our resources, and vice versa, this could beneficial. We are becoming a smaller world because of the internet, and it can be a great opportunity for sales.
Oh this is big news! I’ve been keeping a pulse on the big 4 and CCS waiting for some sort of commitment or reinvention of the sewing pattern business! It didn’t come!
It’s true, us independent designers are enjoying niche markets of home sewers who are demanding more and more ! It is a personal journey for my customers into revamping their style through self reflection and finding joy in creating their own garments!
Thanks for the article.
It is an interesting issue, but the big 4 as you call them are not the most big pattern companies outside the US.
I mean ,you have forgotten Burda.
In Europe Latin America and Asia for over 60 years they have been providers of patterns not only with their monthly magazine that is published in 17 languages in over a 100 countries ( including China and Russia, and that is a lot of people), but with printed and now downloadable ones.
So it will be interesting what Design Group will try to do, will it keep status quo
only for the US market ? or will it restructure ,reshape and bring more design to the Big 4 trying to compete in international markets against a giant like Burda and Indie pattern makers that each day gain more and more buyers.
I think it’s sad when a history comes to an end, but I’m hoping it makes patterns more affordable for those of us in Australia.
New patterns take months to be released here, and not just because of the seasons, it includes costume patterns too.
If I buy them direct from the companies in the US, I have been charged ludicrous shipping here. $80($110 Australian) for 10
patterns. So if I really need one, I will check the UK sites, because their shipping is cheaper. There used to be Australian versions of patterns years ago, but everything is from the US &
never get the same discounts at sale time. Maybe 4 for $20 is the best I’ve seen & $8 for Vogue once or twice a year. Licensing also prevents some patterns to even be available in Australia, meaning we have to pay the premium to get them direct from the US.
It will be interesting to see how this changes the industry.
Have you checked out In the Folds? It’s a wonderful independent Australian pattern brand.
There are loads of great Aus and NZ pattern companies – Megan Neilsen, StyleArc, Tessuti, Paper Cut, The Sewing Revival, Pattern Emporium, 1 Puddle Lane, Tadah and Boo (for kids) etc etc.
Thank you for this great list!
Thank you both, Abby and K. I’ve been shopping Etsy and Ebay for patterns and have several great styles from New Look and StyleArc. And Jayne, check this out for deals on McCalls, Vogue, Butterick, and KwikSew. Pay $9.99 for BMV Club before ordering patterns. Sign up for emails. Wait for a sale on the brand you want to buy. Deals are like, ex., any Vogues for less than $6 !!!
Thanks Abby. I love those designs for me, but not quite what I would use for teenagers learning to sew or costumes for the school production though. 😊
Very interesting news. As a Brit I might remark that we are known for creative young designers, but we also have ruthless business practices where companies are bought and then closed down. The present situation sounds very messy, as patterns in UK are very expensive, Anericans can afford to buy at sale price and hoard them, while they may be unaffordable in Oz and unobtainable in Canada.
The recent trend in UK is for three or four patterns to be bundled with a magazine, to be sold in newsagents and supermarkets. I have no idea whether they sell well. Burda is sold here, but not widely used, and some smaller European companies have popped up in magazine form.
The Great British Sewing Bee is a wildly successful TV programme that has stimulated a lot of interest.
Interesting – I’m also a Brit.
I agree about young designers (although this does not follow into pattern designers other than perhaps The Makers Atelier) we have always had a name for being at the forefront of fashion with innovative design. I was very stuck a few years back at the difference between London and New York – London was vibrant and eclectic, New York was dull and very conservative.
I’m not sure why you say we have ruthless business practices, companies are not bought to be closed down, they are closed down if they are not profitable which in the current economic climate is good business practice.
With regards to sewing magazines in the UK – the quality of editorial is dire and most are just wall to wall adverts. Lots of people here use and prefer the European Ottobre and Burda magazines which are of a much higher quality and have far more usable content.
Abby – i totally agree with your analysis: “Given the competition from indie pattern brands with strong followings that offer both digital downloads and print patterns, will all four legacy brands still be here in a decade? ” There is such a shift to a different type and style of sewing now; with Independent designers, instant PDF downloads, and now even the next frontier of patterns in Augmented Reality type Apps. The difference between the Big4 and patterns from independent designers is not just style – it is approachability, it is culture, it is heart – you know there are actual people behind those small labels working with passion, and not just hiding behind a big Name. Look forward to see what the next development is.
I was on a fabric and fashion tour of New York a few years ago. Loved visiting Mc Calls and seeing how a pattern was made from scratch, and that they have a library of patterns so that if there was an enquire they could answer the question. It is a shame this is all happening but I agree that if they were cheaper and there was more style not just a pattern for something with just a few seams then it would be worth it. When you have to pay $25 a pattern that’s when you just don’t buy them anymore and when you select a few patterns and the store has none of them, That’s what turns you off sewing. Lucky I am in a group that gets creative with our pattern making and I now support local designers of patterns.
It is sad to see the legacy leave the US. However, maybe this will give these pattern companies a much needed overhaul. Today’s patterns are worse than ever. They are written so poorly and with so few illustrations. I can’t imagine someone with little to no experience using them successfully.
I don’t trust or like using indie clothing designers – emperor’s new clothes as far as I am concerned, (the only part of the crafting world that I feel this way about). My sewing pattern needs are pretty basic now but it’s the big four all the way for me. PDF patterns are a nightmare and certainly not a plus point for me.
Not sure why you are quite so resistant to Indie designers, a bad experience perhaps?
However, many of them are highly skilled, I’m EXCEPTIONALLY picky about quality drafting with 50+ years sewing experience, there is nothing Emperor’s new clothes about them. Some also produce paper patterns if you don’t care for PDF. When I learned to sew the only choice was commercial patterns, now I very seldom use them, maybe because I’m in Europe and they are designed for largely for the US market the styles lack appeal. We do have to thank Indie designers for the up serge in sewing interest in the younger generation, without them the entire pattern industry would have collapsed long ago.
Very over priced, inconsistent sizing, poor design/lack of originality, lack of convenience, very poor knowledge of established and excellent sewing techniques – the passing on of extremely shoddy techniques and skills sometimes; i.e. reinventing the wheel which then falls off. Design and execution are not the same things and too many designers cover all the angles as one person and do it poorly (in my opinion.) Some of the reasons why.
Fair enough but they are not all cut from the same cloth.
I’ve drafted my patterns for years, because I design and sew costumes for live theatre; and I also rely on commercial patterns for my own clothes. Vogue has always been my favorite, and I do own some vintage patterns. Here in my country, Panama, in Central America, the only available patterns are Burda, so I have to buy online. And yes, I have tried indie patterns. They’re very nice for me. I’ll keep an eye on these news.
Many indies that carried paper patterns have started or already discontinued them. I also sew costumes gor our local theater group and there’s not much in the Indie world for that. Yes, there’s some wonderful historically correct companies but theater costumes for a community group that has no budget is a different animal altogether.
It sounds to me like there’s a niche here for an indie pattern company to fill.
I did costumes for three amateur theater groups at the same time. For 5 years. I didn’t have problems making costumes, I only had trouble with “Mom” directors who’s ego wouldn’t let anyone else make decisions. Also with performers who wouldn’t wear costumes , but wanted to wear “Their own clothes”. Also parents who thought children’s theater (100 kids!) was a free baby sitter, and freaked out when asked to help with costumes.
I could make a swamp monster from any men’s pattern to use for sizes.
I know this thread is about the pattern companies, but some of us “Oldies” could do a lot with altering the old patterns.
Is sewing even taught in high school anymore?
Back in the ’80s, we had a little taster of sewing in Home Economics but I’m not sure that even exists in Australian schools anymore… (and no idea about US/UK/Europe/Asia). I don’t think I’d have ever started sewing without that first guided introduction. I still have the very wonky baby outfit I made 🙂
Yes it is. We teach it in year 8 -10, As a one semester elective each year, and then students can choose sewing as their practise in studio art, but we don’t offer an exclusive Fashion & Textiles program in VCE.
There are schools teaching it to year 12.
I was bought as a tutor at another private school to improve their sewing skillS in year 11 & 12, because they hadn’t taken enough of the earlier elective sewing classes. Too many students want to be a designer, but not learn the construction basics.
I have at least 3 or 4 students work on the costume team for the musical at school each year.
My middle child took textiles in year 8 at our local high school and I still use their pin cushion everyday at work.
Thanks Jayne. That’s great news!
Gives me hope!
I presume you are in Victoria (VCE)…?
Yes it’s taught in the UK.
I’m not sure I care who owns the pattern companies if the quality remains good and useful. But I haven’t seen that in recent years. I’d wondered what had happened to them. There is less variety in all 4, and Vogue, which used to have very detailed directions and pattern pieces, is not nearly as good as it was.
The big pattern companies don’t make patterns for true plus size. I wear a 24W from the stores, the pattern sizing I wear a 32W. They don’t offer anything with the exception of a couple of patterns. Considering how we keep hearing how obese many Americans have become, the fact they don’t offer much of anything is not good business. I buy from Indie companies because they offer patterns in my size.
This is SO true! The big 4 pattern companies think that we’re suppose to just be proportionate to someone who’s a smaller size, yea, sure – uh huh! so no variability for having a larger either bust or waistline. Also, sadly it seems like plus size is two styles to them – tent or tank! There seems to be no trendiness to styles available for plus size in patterns just as there isn’t in stores! I don’t know what’s happened with stores, can’t find a plus-size outfit that is of quality fabric, let alone quality construction either! As I pointed out to the gal working the more couture portion of Nordstrom’s “We want to BUY the nicer end clothes – but we can’t buy what you don’t stock either online or in-store!” Indy designers are filling a gap and eating the big-4’s lunch in the plus size market! Which is saying something because after last year, over 70% of women are at or over a size 14!
I am sad at the assumption that British acquisition is a bad thing! We Brits are rather fed-up with many of our brands being sold to US companies – this is a reversal. Burda is European and better design. Let’s hope the transfer of these pattern companies bodes well for improvement in designs – and prices????? PS Singer used to be based in Scotland!!!!
From a consumer standpoint the possibility that we could lose the big four fills me with dread. The stand out feature for me is the wonderfully detailed illustrated instructions that are included in the pattern envelopes. Developed over decades, these are almost always pretty much foolproof and easy to understand. I’m pretty much self taught and still rely heavily on this help. I do use Indie patterns too, however, in my experience the instructions provided tend to be minimal at best. I guess a presumption is made that the customer already has the necessary skills to use the patterns with little, or no help. I worry that this could lead to beginners becoming disillusioned and giving up. There are some Indie companies who provide excellent instructions too but it seems to me, they are few and far between.
I don’t know what indie patterns you’ve used but most people would say the complete reverse is true. Indie patterns tend to have far more detailed instructions, many beginners totally flounder on commercial ones.
To me, it’s just the opposite. Indie pattern designers have detailed sew-alongs on their blogs and offer help and community online without assuming that consumers have any background sewing knowledge.
Lots of thoughts/questions…
1) Just because these were American owned and NYC based companies, doesn’t necessarily follow that they are American products. Is the actual printing done in the US? So following that logic, just because it is a British owned company now, it doesn’t mean that it will suddenly become a British product. Has there been any announcement about closing the NYC offices?
2) Sewing is gaining traction in the UK and in Australia, with many of those sewists asking for cheaper or easier access to the Big 4 patterns. They historically have been under served by the Big 4 patterns. Maybe this will open a broader market to the Big 4 sewing patterns, making them more widely available. If production moves outside of the US, it might make the patterns slightly more expensive in the US, but cheaper to other markets.
3) A product that at original price of $12 that can constantly be “on sale” for $3, isn’t a $12 product. Clearly, they can still make a profit at $3. So if enough people are buying at full price, which I have done, they make a decent profit margin.
4) The company “CSS then took a number of financial steps to make a hostile takeover more difficult which further depressed the share price.” And as the article states, this sell was the result of negotiations with the “activist investor”. This all sounds like someone or some company really wanted to own CSS’s entire product line or else they would not have gone through all of this effort.
5) I sew almost exclusively Big 4 sewing patterns. I also sew a few select indie patterns. Each have their place in the industry. I know many sewists who are like me and use mostly Big 4 patterns. I know many sewists who use mostly indie. If more and more indie pattern companies are starting up, there’s clearly plenty of market to be gained. And not just from taking market share from each other, but because of an expanding market as new people discover sewing every day. I wasn’t taught to sew in school. But my grandmother sewed for me when I was a kid. I then picked it in grad school and encouraged friends to start sewing. Now there are several new sewists needing sewing patterns in the past year just in my personal social circle. Imagine the growth in the sewing industry if this is happening to every sewist.
LOL sewing never went away in the UK. There has been an international upsurge in popularity thanks to the power of social media and the internet which has sparked enthusiasm in many seamstresses and seamsters!
The Big 4 are, and always have been, readily available in the UK – any lack of availability in recent years is due to the closure of bricks and mortar fabric stores, we do not have vast emporia like Joann but patterns are available in department stores and online. The main reason we don’t buy them is the huge price differential between UK/Europe and the US (can’t speak for AUS) and the pedestrian and dated styles.
I hate what has been done to Kwik Sew: made into a crafting line! While Kwik Sew did not have “cache” like Vogue, it had a strong European sensibility under its original ownership and offered great basic designs for real life across one’s entire wardrobe needs and was always first in giving sewers niche patterns that the other mainstream pattern companies did not offer (like exercise clothing, great swimsuit patterns, etc.)
I understand when you own all of the former “big brands”, you would try to differentiate them. But they already had clear identities!
I guess it will take a good while for this shake up to settle out and see what actually will “be”.
I have seen the pricing of patterns for sales change quite a bit under the new ownership; I wonder how that will work?
But I think Kenneth King is right. Quoting him from February:
“I’m reminded of what happened to Singer Sewing Machines. They used to be the standard of the world, but after a succession of selling off the company and name, we have a brand name that no longer has any reputation–the products are poor at best, and have been for quite some time. My concern is the pattern companies have been headed that way. Whether they are based in the U.S. or the U.K., it’s the lack of attention to the quality of the actual product that will do them in.”
That will be tragic.
I have been sewing for @ 30 years. I’ve had 1 6 week sewing class at Ray-Vogue School of Design in Chicago, Illinois in 1986-1987.
I sew because the quality of RTW clothing that I can afford is poor; and because designer closing is out of reach re: pricing and sizing which tends to be extremely limited regarding size ranges.
I sew because i can do very basic adjustments to patterns to have a garment that better fits my body.
I sew because the creativity with patterns, fabric, designs – trims, notions, etc is endless and profoundly creative.
I sew because i enjoy the entire process from selecting patterns, views, fabrics, notions, etc then coming home and cutting out a pattern and starting to sew.
I struggle with sewing because it has been impossible to find someone to teach me so that i can advance in my sewing skills.
I have heretofore only used the Big 4 patterns because i thought that’s all that was available – that i could afford – on sale.
I use printed patterns because i don’t have time to trace out and/or download patterns – i just don’t have the time and patience with a demanding fulll time job.
I sew because i am a professional and need professional clothing. Sewing my own garments has been the only way to have affordable, warm clothing for Chicago winters, and lightweight delightful clothing for Nashville springs and summers.
I sew because it ensures a high quality for my mental health.
To see capaitalist logics invade on this industry is disheartening; it also is not lost on me that this is an industry whose users are predominantly female and the ping-ponging of buying/selling of the Big 4 is in my mind playing with the livelihoods, creative outlets and mental health of its customers. It feels abusive, an abuse of power, and profound loss.
The home sewing industry in the United States could absolutely thrive – with new sewists coming into the fold, with a Big 4 with new infusions of creative energy and cash which allow them to thrive, with business models that center on customer service first, and with access to beautiful, high quality affordable fabrics to inspire and allow us to soar.
So much could be done – can be done – for this industry – and for the people for whom this is more than a hobby – it is life itself.
Angela, In the past 10 years+, there has been a great deal of online courses that you can follow in the evening or weekend, both free and moderately-priced through PatternReview.com and Craftsy and via individual teachers (often with their own pattern line) through their website or Youtube. If you have a few days to a week off for a sewing vacation, look at taking a class post-Covid with Palmer-Pletsch or many regional sewing/fitting teachers.
I have quite a stash of the big 4 patterns and plenty to sew. I am so disappointed in vogues lack of work clothing selection as well as the other companies. There is not much to choose from except play clothes and tops with a deep low cut bodice. Who can wear these clothes to work…no one…there has not been a holiday offering from vogue yet. The home sewing industry is a big one but does need some tweaking on their pattern offerings.
I wish an industry insider could comment to clarify the economics of the “Big 4” and why they have been sold repeatedly in the last 10 years. When the most recent sale took place, the Vogue Patterns magazine was eliminated immediately. I have subscribed to that magazine for as long as I can remember: 25+ years.
In the last 10 years, the quality of the magazine had trended upward, despite numerous editor transitions. The teaching aspect w/ Kathryn Brenne’s column, articles by Claire Schaeffer, addressing what “editorial license” had been taken or could be taken with patterns featured, stories on fabric shopping in interesting metro areas, showing fashion trends with the new patterns, and actually presenting the patterns to sewers regularly, made for a really enjoyable magazine. I think the new owner is rapidly undoing the Big 4, as their outreach is reduced to only online and in Joann’s. Despite being a member of their “club” to reduce pattern pricing/shipping, I rarely receive an email from them.
NO RESPONSIBILTY ACCEPTED FOR FACTORY PATTERN ERROR
I purchased 5 copies of McCall’s M8058 from my local sewing supply store in several months ago for an easy sewing project for my sewing group this year. I purchased 2 x Size 6-14 and 3 x Size 14-22. When our group met last week, we were all dismayed to find the incorrect pattern tissue in ALL of the 5 patterns I had purchased. The instructions were correct and matched the dress pictured on the pattern envelope. However, although the pattern tissue had the correct number printed on all the pattern pieces (M8058) the pattern tissue provided was for a wrap dress and NOT for the dress pictured on the front of the envelope. There has obviously a factory error in which the pattern number (M8058) was printed on the incorrect pattern tissue. As I no longer have the receipt for my purchases, which is requirement for a refund, I decided to contact McCall’s via their contact form and explain my predicament. Following NO response after 24 hours, I tried again, and once more received NO RESPONSE. I then messaged McCall’s on their Facebook page. Not even this resulted in a response. I finally wrote a post on their Facebook Page, which was immediately deleted, with NO COMMUNICATION. I am extremely disappointed and surprised that what I believed to be a reputable company of long standing in the community has so little regard for their customers and accepts no responsibility for their mistakes!
Terrible! They used to have a customer service line — the telephone # was printed in Vogue Patterns magazine — and you could get help 5 days a week, including help with issues or instructions on the patterns.
Still, my biggest concern is the longstanding staff in NYC: what has happened with them? Are they being reduced, not hiring talented new staff, what ??? The designers and pattern makers at the Manhattan office were/are, hopefully, the backbone of the Vogue/Butterick/McCalls/Simplicity lines (at least the Vogue and Butterick lines).
Any firsthand knowledge about those folks under the new ownership would be greatly appreciated.
Now they are owned by a British company does that mean that we might get the patterns at the same time as the USA not month behind, several releases are on the USA site but months later still not at sewdirect even as a member
Interestingly, “Something Delightful”, the website for Vogue-McCalls-Kwik-Sew-Butterick-CR Gibson, has sent me sales emails every other week since my 12/20 post, and the discounts are large: $5.99-$6.99 for Vogue and $3.99 – $4.99 for Butterick and the others. They also just gave me a one year extension on my BMV subscription, as I have been purchasing during their sales.
I still would like to know if CSS Industries previously, or under the new owner, Design Group, has retained its top design staff who have been there a long time, or if they encouraged them to leave (either through early retirement or significant changes in their job or work circumstances…).
Abby Glassenberg, do you know anything about administrative changes at the NYC office?
I’m sorry, I don’t know.
Thank you.
The more I can avoid purchasing bad quality clothing made by underpaid poorly treated workers or children in third world countries, the better I feel. Also absolutely prefer having recycled paper professionally printed patterns ready for me to cut (not a pile of printer papers to sticky tape together, and store). The Big 4 work for me in many ways. I am teaching my children to sew now. I wish the Big 4 all the best, and my support, to continue in any way they can through the years.
Yesterday 11/22/21 I noticed the Kwik Sew pattern section missing from the Something Delightful website. Does anyone know if this is the start of eliminating patterns companies 1 by 1?
I also noticed Kwik Sew has vanished from all sewing sites. Out of business??
Hi, I have inquired about this and will report back here if I’m able to find out the status of KwikSew now. Thank you for pointing this out!
I heard from Abbie Small, the Executive Vice President and General Manager of Craft at Design Group, about this. She said, “Design Group has decided to discontinue the Kwik Sew brand of products currently carried in stores, we have not discontinued the brand at this time and may offer it on line in the future. The goal is to enrich the Simplicity and McCalls brands with more craft and easy to sew patterns; which have broader distribution to aid the home sewist. We will continie to ship current products as inventory allows until the end of 2021.”
I have been searching thrift stores for vintage patterns and have quite a Collection of uncut patterns. My goal is to start back sewing my own clothes. I am so disappointed in the garments I see in the store now. They have absolutely no style to them. My patterns go all the way back to the 1930s. I feel so honored to have them
Kwik Sew were bought out by McCalls in 2011. I doubt they wanted to keep something going that was replicated in their own brand. Plus, If something isn’t profitable it does not make economic sense to keep it going, better to focus development in other areas.
I used to always use the Big 4 patterns, and I have a nice stash. Alas, I am now 2-3 sizes larger; those patterns don’t fit anymore. I know how to draft my own patterns, but I prefer ready made.
My 4 favorite pattern sites are Mood, DIBY, Closet Core, and StyleArc. Mood has some terrific designs and they are free to download. Their instructions are not the best, but since it’s free, I’m not complaining. I can usually find help on internet sewing sites. DIBY, ClosetCore, and StyleArc all have great patterns, and good instructions. They are not free, but are reasonably priced. Generally these only have pdf downloads to print and tape together. StyleArc gives you more options. Their websites are fun with lots of great info, blogs and photos. All show lots of different sized women modeling the clothes they’ve sewn from their patterns.
I cut my sewing teeth on the big 4. I am so accustomed to their clear instructions accompanied by line drawings The new patterns, which I’ve dabbled with, aren’t as clear. In particular I love New Look. I hope Simplicity’s New Look Line survives. Of course, there is so much competition out there now and truly I can see why. Some of the new homegrown patterns I don’t trust anymore than myself to know a thing. And to think I never tried a vogue pattern, so afraid of them by what the other girls said. These older patterns will be around for a while yet, but it is hard to say goodbye to old friends.
I wonder will the newer patterns have stock in fabric stores? It was a particular pleasure of mine to go and lounge around the tables, flipping through the books and thinking. Thank you for the information and good luck to all.
I am a seller of vintage and pre owned patterns Not sure if I am allowed to say this on here, but I am Ms_Prissys_Patterns on Bonanza(dot)Com.
I also sell vintage doll patterns (paper & digital) as CuriousityShop on Etsy .
I have been sewing for 60 years and will miss homegrown pattern companies. I haven’t seen any of the UK produced patterns yet.
The parent company is in the UK that’s all, they are not produced here in fact there is only one tissue pattern printer in the world. I’ve been sewing 50 odd years and personally don’t miss the demise of the big 4 one iota.
Amelia – style is subjective.
That Design Group has buttons, ribbons, and trims as part of its product line gives me some hope that (1) it will keep the Big 4; and (2) do something for those brands to bring back their pre-1980s distinctions between brands and the quality assurance/quality control of everything inside and outside that pattern envelope—which needs to stop relying on the instruction sheet to list required notions and return it to the location they were once found, right below the finished-garment-measurements information, every time!
Correction On Required Notions: That location should be “before or after the measuements info.”
In at least one case, Simplicity relies on the pattern-instruction illustrations and steps to communicate to users they need thread, packaged trim for one of the views, an 18″ invisible zipper, and a hook & eye (which the illustrations omit, even though directions to apply the back neck facings follow those for the zipper application)!
Even for the relative ease of construction inherent in the recent revival of this 1968 kite dress pattern among the company’s Retro collection, the original would’ve absolutely listed those three items BEFORE those “New Sizing” measurements, NOT assume customers have been home couturiers for the last 54 years!!!
Simplicity and Design Center, this is called User Experience or UX!
Sheesh, even the first page or two of the “Learn to Sew” pattern instructions (late ’60s/early ’70s) that got me started as a tween contained a checklist of EVERYTHING newbies needed to make their firsr garment—right down to the 6″ sewing gauge with the handy-dandy slider to mark those hems!!!!!
I worked as a Patern Maker at Vogue and Butterich company in mid 70’s in the Butterick Building on 6th Ave and Spring street !
Great company to work that was in all levels !
I still have some old patterns !